Seasonal

Pre-Winter Home Maintenance Checklist for Australians

Seasonal home maintenance checklist to prepare your Australian home for winter. Covers heating, roofing, gutters, plumbing, insulation and trades to book.

17 February 2026 12 min read

Australian winters are mild by global standards, but they still expose every weakness in your home. A leaking roof that went unnoticed all summer becomes a ceiling stain in June. A heater that worked fine last August may refuse to ignite after sitting idle for eight months. Pipes in uninsulated subfloor spaces can freeze in southern Victoria, the ACT, and Tasmania, cracking overnight and flooding your house by morning.

The best time to deal with winter problems is autumn, before every plumber, roofer, and heating technician in your area is booked solid. Tradies report that emergency callout volumes spike by 30 to 50 percent in the first cold snap each year, and after-hours rates climb accordingly.

This pre-winter home maintenance checklist covers what to inspect, what to fix, and which licensed tradespeople to call for each job. Work through it between March and May, and your home will handle winter without surprises.

1. Service Your Heating System

A heating system that ran fine last winter is not guaranteed to work this year. Gas heaters can develop cracked heat exchangers that leak carbon monoxide. Reverse-cycle air conditioners lose efficiency with dirty filters and blocked outdoor units. Ducted systems accumulate dust that triggers allergies and reduces airflow.

Gas heater servicing (every 2 years minimum):

  • A licensed gasfitter inspects the burner, pilot assembly, thermocouple, and flue, and checks for carbon monoxide leaks using a combustion analyser. Cost: $120 to $200 per unit.
  • Unflued gas heaters are banned in bedrooms and bathrooms in every state. Victoria banned all new Type A unflued gas heater sales from January 2025. If you still use one, replace it before winter.
  • Open-flue gas heaters must be checked for spillage (exhaust gases entering the room instead of exiting through the flue), the leading cause of residential carbon monoxide poisoning in Australia.

Reverse-cycle air conditioner servicing:

  • Clean or replace filters every 3 to 6 months. A clogged filter reduces heating efficiency by up to 15 percent.
  • Clear vegetation and debris from around the outdoor unit. Maintain at least 300mm clearance on all sides.
  • A full service by a licensed air conditioning technician costs $150 to $300 (refrigerant check, electrical connections, coil cleaning).

Ducted heating servicing:

  • Gas ducted heating requires a licensed gasfitter for the heat exchanger, burner, and flue inspection. Cost: $150 to $250.
  • A cracked heat exchanger is a safety-critical defect. If your ducted heater is more than 15 years old, budget for potential replacement ($3,500 to $6,000 installed).
  • Clean return air grilles and check that duct joints in the roof space are sealed. Disconnected or damaged ducts waste 20 to 40 percent of your heating energy.

Who to call: A licensed gasfitter for all gas appliances. Find one on TradieVerify’s search page. For reverse-cycle units, book a licensed air conditioning technician. For electrical heater faults, contact a licensed electrician.

2. Inspect Your Roof and Fix Problems Early

Roof leaks are the number one winter emergency for Australian homeowners. A small crack in a tile or a lifted Colorbond sheet that caused no issues through dry months will channel water directly into your ceiling cavity the first time heavy rain hits.

What to check (from the ground, using binoculars):

  • Cracked, broken, or slipped tiles. Terracotta and concrete tiles become brittle with age, especially on north-facing slopes.
  • Lifted or corroded metal sheeting. Coastal homes are vulnerable to salt corrosion on Colorbond. Look for rust spots around screw fixings.
  • Flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights. Sealant around lead or zinc flashing degrades after 10 to 15 years and is the most common source of hard-to-find leaks.
  • Ridge capping. Mortar bedding cracks and crumbles over time, letting water into the roof cavity. Repointing costs $40 to $60 per linear metre.
  • Sagging roofline. May indicate structural timber damage from water ingress or termite activity.

Do not climb on the roof yourself. Falls from roofs account for approximately 14 percent of workplace fatalities in Australia. Working at heights above 2 metres requires proper safety equipment and training.

Who to call: A licensed roofer for tile replacement, metal sheet repairs, flashing, and ridge capping. Find a licensed roofer on TradieVerify. If you suspect structural damage, also consult a licensed builder or structural engineer.

3. Clean and Repair Gutters and Downpipes

Blocked gutters are the second most common cause of winter water damage. When gutters overflow, water runs down external walls, pools around foundations, and seeps into subfloor spaces.

Gutter maintenance tasks:

  • Remove leaves, dirt, twigs, and any debris from gutters and downpipe outlets. Pay special attention to internal corners and valley gutters where debris accumulates fastest.
  • Check gutter falls. Water should flow towards downpipes without ponding. If water sits in sections of your gutter, the gutter has sagged and needs resetting. Correct fall is 1:500 (roughly 5mm per metre).
  • Inspect gutter joints and corners for rust, holes, or separated seams. Small holes can be patched with gutter sealant ($15 to $25 per tube), but rusted-through sections need replacement.
  • Flush downpipes with a garden hose to check for blockages. If water backs up, the blockage may be in the downpipe elbow at the bottom or in the underground stormwater drain.
  • Consider installing gutter guard mesh if you have overhanging trees. Quality gutter guard costs $25 to $45 per metre installed and significantly reduces maintenance frequency.

Stormwater drains:

Your downpipes connect to underground stormwater drains. If these are blocked (tree roots, silt, collapsed pipe), water surfaces around your foundations. A licensed plumber can inspect with a CCTV camera and clear blockages with a high-pressure jetter ($250 to $500).

Who to call: A licensed roofer or licensed plumber for gutter cleaning, repair, and replacement. If stormwater drains need clearing, a plumber with drainage endorsement is required.

4. Draught-Proof Your Home

Draughts account for up to 25 percent of heat loss in an average Australian home, according to the Australian Government’s YourHome guide. Sealing draughts is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to reduce winter heating costs.

Where to check for draughts:

  • External doors. Run your hand around the frame on a windy day. If you feel air movement, the weatherstripping has failed. Replacing seals costs $20 to $50 per door for materials.
  • Windows. Timber frames shrink and warp; aluminium seals harden and crack. Self-adhesive foam tape ($5 to $15 per roll) is a temporary fix; new seals are the long-term solution.
  • Exhaust fans. Kitchen and bathroom fans that vent outside let cold air in when not running. Install a backdraft damper ($15 to $30).
  • Fireplace. An unused open fireplace is one of the largest draught sources. Fit a chimney draught stopper ($40 to $80) or close the damper.
  • Subfloor vents. Close adjustable vents partway during winter to reduce cold air rising through floorboards.
  • Downlights. Older recessed downlights create openings to the ceiling cavity. Downlight covers ($10 to $20 each) seal these gaps and allow insulation over the lights.

Who to call: Most draught-proofing is DIY. For exhaust fan ducting or bathroom ventilation, contact a licensed electrician.

5. Check Your Hot Water System

Hot water systems work hardest in winter and a system near end-of-life often fails when demand peaks. Incoming cold water is 5 to 10 degrees cooler than in summer, meaning the system uses more energy per litre.

What to check on any storage system:

  • Check the pressure relief valve (TPR valve) by lifting the lever briefly. Water should flow and stop when released. A weeping valve indicates the valve or thermostat needs replacing.
  • Look for rust stains, pooling water, or bulging at the base. These signal internal corrosion and approaching failure. Electric storage tanks last 8 to 12 years; gas storage 10 to 15 years.
  • Have the sacrificial anode inspected every 5 years and replaced when more than 50 percent corroded. Cost: $150 to $300.

Gas systems: A licensed gasfitter should service every 2 years, checking the burner, thermocouple, gas pressure, and flue. Instantaneous systems in hard water areas need descaling ($200 to $350).

Heat pumps and solar: Clean the evaporator coil or panel surface, clear debris, and maintain 300mm clearance. Check that the solar booster is operational, as solar contribution drops to 30 to 50 percent of heating needs in winter.

Who to call: A licensed plumber for electric and heat pump systems. A licensed gasfitter for gas systems. Find licensed plumbers on TradieVerify.

6. Insulate Exposed Pipes

Frozen and burst pipes occur regularly in alpine Victoria, highland NSW, Tasmania, and the ACT, where overnight temperatures drop below zero for weeks at a time. Even Melbourne and Adelaide can see pipe freezing during unusually cold snaps.

Most vulnerable locations: subfloor spaces (pier and beam foundations), external walls without insulation, unheated garages and laundries, and outdoor taps.

How to protect pipes:

  • Fit foam pipe insulation sleeves ($3 to $8 per metre) on all exposed pipes in unheated areas. This is a straightforward DIY task.
  • Insulate outdoor taps with tap covers ($10 to $20 each) or wrap them with an old towel and a cable tie.
  • If you own a holiday home in a cold-climate area and will be away during winter, turn off the water at the mains and drain the system.
  • In alpine areas, thermostatically controlled heat tape on vulnerable pipe runs provides extra protection. A licensed electrician should install heat tape because it involves electrical connections.

Who to call: Pipe insulation is DIY. For pipe relocation or heat tape installation, call a licensed plumber or electrician.

7. Test Smoke Alarms and Safety Devices

Winter brings increased fire risk from heaters, electric blankets, and clothes dryers. Test smoke alarms before these appliances see heavy use.

What to do:

  • Press the test button on each alarm. If no sound, replace the battery or the entire unit if it uses a sealed battery.
  • Check the manufacture date on the back. Smoke alarms expire after 10 years regardless of type. Replace any that are overdue.
  • Vacuum around the alarm to remove dust and insects.
  • If you have gas appliances, fit a carbon monoxide detector in each room with a gas appliance and in sleeping areas. CO detectors are not yet mandated in any Australian state, but the Coroner’s Court of Victoria has recommended mandatory installation.

Electrical safety checks:

  • Test the safety switch (RCD) on your switchboard by pressing the test button. The circuit should trip immediately. If it does not, call a licensed electrician.
  • Check for damaged or frayed cords on heaters, electric blankets, and other winter appliances.

Who to call: A licensed electrician for smoke alarm installation, RCD testing, and switchboard work.

8. Inspect Windows and Doors

Single-glazed aluminium windows, common in homes built before 2005, lose heat at roughly five times the rate of double-glazed units. Fixing window and door issues before winter pays off immediately in lower heating bills.

What to check:

  • Window seals and putty. Cracked or missing putty allows air and water infiltration. Reglaze where putty has separated from the glass.
  • Sliding door tracks. Clean with a vacuum and stiff brush. Replace worn pile seals along the door edges.
  • Locks and latches. Windows and doors that do not close fully cannot seal properly. Adjust or replace faulty hardware.
  • Condensation. Heavy condensation indicates poor ventilation. Left unchecked, it causes mould growth on frames and surrounding walls. Run exhaust fans and open windows briefly during dry periods.

Upgrade options: Secondary glazing ($200 to $500 per window, up to 60 percent heat loss reduction), double glazing ($500 to $1,200 per window), or low-emissivity window film ($15 to $40 per square metre DIY).

Who to call: A glazier for reglazing and glazing upgrades. A licensed carpenter for timber window frame repairs.

9. Check Subfloor and Ceiling Insulation

Ceiling insulation alone can cut heating energy use by up to 45 percent. Subfloor insulation adds another 10 to 20 percent reduction.

Ceiling insulation: If your home was built before 2003, existing insulation may be below current NCC standards (R4.0 to R6.0 depending on climate zone). Look for gaps, compressed areas, and sections displaced by trades. Top-up insulation over existing batts is cost-effective: adding R2.5 over old R2.0 batts brings the total to R4.5.

Subfloor insulation: Homes with suspended timber floors lose significant heat through the floor. Underfloor batts or foil cost $15 to $30 per square metre installed. Check that subfloor vents are not blocked by garden beds or stored items.

Who to call: If existing downlights need covers fitted before insulation is installed, a licensed electrician should do that work first.

10. Prepare Outdoor Areas

Winter storms bring strong winds, heavy rain, and in some regions, hail. Preparing your outdoor areas reduces the risk of storm damage and expensive repairs.

Outdoor checklist:

  • Loose items. Secure or store outdoor furniture, trampolines, shade sails, and pot plants that could become projectiles in high winds.
  • Trees and overhanging branches. Trim branches within 2 metres of your roof, power lines, or windows. For large trees or branches near power lines, contact your electricity distributor or a qualified arborist. Council permits may be required for tree removal.
  • Fences. Check fence posts for rot at ground level by pushing firmly. Loose posts should be rebraced or replaced before winter storms.
  • Outdoor taps and irrigation. Drain irrigation systems in frost-prone areas. Insulate outdoor taps as covered in section 6.
  • External drainage. Clear leaves and debris from yard drains, channel drains, and any stormwater pits on your property. Water pooling against your house during winter leads to damp walls and potential foundation issues.

Who to call: A licensed builder or carpenter for fence repairs. A licensed plumber for drainage issues.

When to Book Your Trades

Book in autumn, not winter. Once cold weather arrives, tradies are dealing with emergencies and wait times blow out.

Recommended booking timeline:

TaskTrade NeededBook By
Gas heater serviceGasfitterMarch
Reverse-cycle AC serviceAir conditioning technicianMarch
Roof inspection and repairsRooferMarch-April
Gutter cleaning and repairRoofer or plumberApril
Hot water system servicePlumber or gasfitterApril
Smoke alarm replacementElectricianApril
Pipe insulation (cold areas)Plumber or DIYApril-May
Window and door repairsGlazier or carpenterMay
Insulation top-upInsulation installerMay

Before booking any trade, verify their licence on TradieVerify to confirm it is current and covers the work you need. For guidance on checking licences state by state, see our licence verification guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I start preparing my home for winter in Australia?

Start in March and aim to finish by the end of May. Gas heater servicing and roof inspections should be booked first because gasfitters and roofers experience the highest pre-winter demand. If you wait until June, expect longer wait times and higher call-out fees. In tropical Queensland and the NT, winter preparation is less urgent, but heating servicing and roof checks still apply in elevated inland areas like Toowoomba and Alice Springs.

Which winter maintenance tasks must be done by a licensed tradesperson?

Gas appliance work requires a licensed gasfitter. All electrical work (smoke alarms, RCD testing) requires a licensed electrician. Plumbing work (hot water servicing, stormwater clearing) requires a licensed plumber. Draught-proofing, pipe insulation, gutter cleaning from a ladder under 2 metres, and general tidying are DIY tasks. Verify licences at TradieVerify.

How much does a full pre-winter home service cost?

Typical estimates for a 3-bedroom house: gas heater service $120 to $200, reverse-cycle AC service $150 to $300, roof inspection and minor repairs $200 to $600, gutter cleaning $200 to $400, hot water system check $100 to $200. A comprehensive service across all ten checklist items might total $800 to $2,000. Prioritise safety-critical items first: gas heater servicing, smoke alarms, and roof repairs.

Do I need to worry about frozen pipes in Australia?

Frozen pipes are a genuine risk in alpine Victoria (Falls Creek, Mt Hotham), highland NSW (Orange, Bathurst, Armidale), Tasmania, and the ACT, where overnight temperatures regularly drop below zero. Melbourne, Adelaide, and parts of regional Victoria can also experience pipe freezing during unusually cold snaps. Foam pipe insulation on exposed pipes in subfloor spaces and garages is cheap insurance. If you own a holiday home in a cold-climate area, drain the water system before leaving for extended periods.

Should I service my hot water system before winter?

Yes. Incoming cold water is 5 to 10 degrees cooler in winter, so the system works harder per litre. A system near end-of-life (8 to 12 years for electric storage, 10 to 15 years for gas) is most likely to fail under peak demand. Servicing identifies worn anodes, faulty TPR valves, and burner issues before they cause a complete failure.

What is the most cost-effective winter preparation task?

Draught-proofing. Materials cost $50 to $200 for a whole house and the work is DIY. The Australian Government’s YourHome guide estimates sealing draughts reduces heating costs by up to 25 percent. Ceiling insulation top-up is second, cutting heating energy by up to 45 percent for $1,000 to $3,000.

Sources

  1. Australian Government YourHome, “Sealing Your Home,” yourhome.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  2. Energy Safe Victoria, “Carbon Monoxide Safety,” esv.vic.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  3. Safe Work Australia, “Working at Heights,” safeworkaustralia.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  4. Australian Building Codes Board, “NCC 2025 Energy Efficiency Provisions,” abcb.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  5. QBCC, “Smoke Alarm Legislation,” qbcc.qld.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  6. Victorian Building Authority, “Smoke Alarm Requirements,” vba.vic.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  7. Sustainability Victoria, “Insulation Guide,” sustainability.vic.gov.au, accessed February 2026.
  8. Bureau of Meteorology, “Climate Data Online,” bom.gov.au, accessed February 2026.