Professional painters will tell you the same thing: preparation is 70 to 80 per cent of any paint job. The actual brushwork is the easy bit. What happens before your painter dips a brush determines whether the finish lasts two years or ten.
The good news is that most of the preparation you can do yourself costs nothing except a few hours of your time. Clearing a room, pulling nails out of walls, and giving surfaces a wipe-down are straightforward tasks. But getting them done before your painter arrives means they spend their time on skilled work, not shifting your couch or scraping sticky tape residue off skirting boards. That keeps the job shorter and your bill lower.
This checklist covers everything you should do before your painter starts, for both interior and exterior jobs. If you have not booked a painter yet, start with our guide on how to hire a licensed painter in Australia.
1. Confirm the Scope and Colours Before Your Painter Arrives
Colour indecision is one of the most common causes of painting delays. Finalise every colour choice before the job starts, not on the morning your painter turns up with a van full of gear.
What to lock in:
- Which rooms or exterior sections are being painted.
- Exact paint colours for each area, including trim, doors, ceilings, and feature walls. Get sample pots from Dulux, Taubmans, or your preferred brand and test them on the actual wall in different lighting.
- Paint finish for each surface. Flat or matte for ceilings, low sheen for walls, semi-gloss for trim and wet areas is the standard approach in most Australian homes.
- Whether ceilings are included. This is a common misunderstanding. If you want ceilings painted, say so explicitly.
- Whether the painter is supplying paint or you are. Most professionals prefer to supply their own to ensure quality and warranty coverage.
Write all of this down and email it to your painter at least a week before the start date. A written scope prevents the “I thought that was included” conversation halfway through the job.
If you are unsure about costs, check our house painting cost guide for current Australian pricing per square metre.
2. Check for Lead Paint in Pre-1970 Homes
If your home was built before 1970, there is a strong chance the existing paint contains lead. Around 3.7 million Australian homes fall into this category. Lead was used heavily in residential paint until the National Health and Medical Research Council restricted it to 1 per cent in 1970. Further limits followed (0.5 per cent in 1990, 0.25 per cent in 1992, 0.1 per cent in 1997), and lead was completely banned as a paint additive in Australia in 2010.
Why this matters for preparation. Sanding, scraping, or disturbing lead paint creates toxic dust. This is a health risk for you, your family, your pets, and the painter. Children and pregnant women are especially vulnerable.
What to do:
- If your home was built before 1970, assume lead paint is present until proven otherwise.
- Buy a colour-change lead test kit from Bunnings or your local hardware store. These cost around $30 and give a quick indication, though they are not 100 per cent accurate.
- For a definitive result, send a paint chip sample to a NATA-registered laboratory. Kits cost $50 to $80.
- If lead paint is confirmed, tell your painter before they start. A licensed painter will know how to manage lead-safe work practices under AS 4361.2:2017. Some jobs will require a specialist lead paint removal contractor.
- Do not sand, scrape, or use a heat gun on suspected lead paint yourself.
The Australian Government’s Lead Alert guide from the Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water is a free resource that covers safe practices in detail.
3. Clear Rooms and Move Furniture
Your painter needs clear access to every wall, ceiling edge, and skirting board. The more you clear before they arrive, the faster they work.
For interior painting:
- Move small and medium furniture out of the room entirely. Side tables, lamps, bookshelves, dining chairs, and anything you can carry should go to another room or the garage.
- Push large pieces like sofas, beds, and heavy cabinets to the centre of the room. Leave at least 1.5 to 2 metres of clear space from every wall. Your painter will cover central furniture with drop sheets.
- Roll up rugs and store them elsewhere. Paint splatter on a rug is not a conversation you want to have.
- Clear the tops of desks, dressers, and shelving units. Remove everything from floating shelves.
For exterior painting:
- Move outdoor furniture, pot plants, barbecues, and bins away from the walls being painted. Give at least 2 metres of clearance for ladder placement.
- Relocate cars from the driveway if the painter will be working on the front of the house. Overspray from a spray gun can land on vehicles parked nearby.
- Trim back any shrubs, hedges, or climbing plants that sit against the walls. Your painter should not have to fight through a jasmine bush to reach the weatherboards.
4. Remove Wall Hangings, Curtains, and Fittings
Anything attached to a wall that is being painted needs to come down. Painters will work around light switches and power points (they tape them off), but everything else is your responsibility.
Remove and store safely:
- Picture frames, mirrors, and artwork. Wrap glass items in towels to prevent breakage.
- Curtains, blinds, and pelmets. Take down the rods and brackets too if the painter is doing window frames or surrounds.
- Floating shelves and decorative hooks.
- Towel rails and toilet roll holders in bathrooms being painted.
- Cover plates on light switches and power points. Unscrew them and keep the screws in a labelled bag. Your painter will appreciate this more than you think.
Leave for the painter:
- Smoke detectors (they will work around these or temporarily remove them).
- Hard-wired fixtures like downlights and ceiling fans. Painters tape and mask these.
- Air conditioning vents. These get taped off.
Take a photo of each room before you remove hangings. When you are putting everything back after the job, you will not remember exactly where that picture hook was.
5. Clean Your Walls and Surfaces
Paint does not stick to dirty surfaces. A wall that looks clean to the eye can have a thin film of grease, dust, or cooking residue that prevents proper adhesion. This is the number one cause of paint peeling within the first year.
Kitchen walls: Wipe down with warm water and a splash of sugar soap (available at any hardware store for a few dollars). Kitchen walls accumulate an invisible layer of cooking grease, especially near the stove and rangehood. Rinse with clean water after and let dry completely.
Bathroom walls: Check for mould, especially in corners, around the ceiling line, and near the shower. Treat any mould with a bleach solution (one part bleach to four parts water) or a commercial mould killer. Let it dry for 24 hours. Painting over mould is pointless because it will come back through the new paint within months.
General living areas: A dry microfibre cloth to remove cobwebs and dust is usually enough. Pay attention to the top of skirting boards, architraves, and cornices where dust settles.
Exterior walls: A garden hose will remove loose dirt from rendered or brick surfaces. For heavy grime, moss, or salt deposits (common in coastal areas), a pressure washer on a low setting works well. Allow at least 48 hours for exterior surfaces to dry before painting.
6. Repair Cracks, Holes, and Damaged Surfaces
Small repairs are worth doing yourself. Larger damage is better left to your painter, who has the tools and fillers to do it properly.
DIY-friendly repairs:
- Nail holes and small picture hook holes. Fill with a lightweight filler like Selleys Spakfilla, let it dry, and sand lightly with 120-grit sandpaper.
- Hairline cracks along joins or cornices. A flexible gap filler or caulk works for cracks under 2mm wide.
- Small dents in plasterboard. Apply filler, let it dry, sand flush.
Leave for your painter:
- Cracks wider than 2mm or cracks that keep reopening (these may indicate structural movement).
- Water-damaged plasterboard that feels soft or spongy. The cause of the water damage needs to be fixed first.
- Peeling or flaking paint over large areas. Your painter will scrape, sand, and prime these sections as part of their preparation.
- Timber rot on exterior surfaces. Rotted timber needs replacing, not just filling.
If you are unsure whether something is a DIY fix or a painter fix, snap a photo and send it to your painter before the start date. They will tell you what to leave alone.
7. Prepare Your Exterior for Painting
Exterior preparation is more labour-intensive than interior work because you are dealing with weather exposure, access challenges, and a wider variety of surface conditions.
Access and safety:
- Unlock side gates so painters can move ladders and equipment around the full perimeter.
- Clear garden beds along the house walls. Temporarily relocate pot plants and garden ornaments.
- Check that external power points are accessible. Painters may need power for spray equipment, sanders, or lights.
- If your property has a dog, arrange for it to be kept inside or in a separate area on painting days. A loose dog and a painter on a ladder is a bad combination.
Surface-specific preparation:
- Weatherboard: Look for loose or warped boards. Point these out to your painter so they can re-nail or replace them before priming.
- Rendered walls: Check for hairline cracks and hollow spots (tap the render; a hollow sound means it has separated from the substrate). Small cracks can be filled. Hollow render may need patching.
- Brick: Generally only needs a hose-down. If you are painting previously unpainted brick, discuss this with your painter first because it is a one-way decision. Paint on brick is very difficult to remove.
- Metal surfaces (gutters, downpipes, window frames): Rust spots need to be sanded back and treated with a rust converter before painting.
Climate considerations. Australian conditions are tough on exterior paint. In northern states (QLD, NT, northern WA), high humidity can extend drying times and affect adhesion. In coastal areas, salt spray degrades paint faster. In southern states, winter painting is limited by cooler temperatures and shorter daylight hours. Your painter will advise on the best season for your location, but as a general rule, late spring and autumn offer the most stable conditions across most of Australia.
8. Handle Strata, Rental, and Body Corporate Approvals
If you live in a unit, apartment, or townhouse under a strata scheme or body corporate, you may need approval before painting. This catches homeowners off guard regularly.
Strata properties:
- External painting (including balconies, front doors, and window frames visible from common areas) almost always requires body corporate approval. Most strata schemes have an approved colour palette.
- Internal painting of your own lot is usually your decision, but check your by-laws. Some schemes require notification even for internal works.
- If the strata scheme has scheduled a building-wide repaint, your individual painting may conflict with those plans. Check with your strata manager first.
Rental properties:
- If you are a tenant, you need written permission from your landlord or property manager before any painting. This applies even if you plan to paint it back to the original colour when you leave.
- If you are a landlord arranging painting, give your tenant proper notice under your state’s residential tenancy laws. In most states, this is 48 hours’ notice for non-urgent maintenance access.
Heritage-listed properties:
- Homes on a local or state heritage register may have restrictions on exterior paint colours and methods. Check with your local council before booking the job.
9. Set Up for Ventilation and Drying
Modern water-based paints produce far less odour than the oil-based paints of twenty years ago, but proper ventilation still matters for drying speed and air quality.
Interior jobs:
- Open windows in the rooms being painted, plus adjacent rooms, to create cross-ventilation. If the room has no windows (a common situation in internal bathrooms), set up a portable fan to push air toward the nearest open window or door.
- In humid conditions (common in QLD, NT, and northern NSW, especially from November to March), air conditioning or a dehumidifier in adjacent rooms helps paint cure faster.
- Ask your painter about drying time between coats. In a well-ventilated room at 20 to 25 degrees, water-based paint typically dries to touch in one to two hours. Recoating is usually possible after two to four hours. High humidity or cool temperatures can double these times.
Exterior jobs:
- Your painter will check the forecast. Most exterior paints should not be applied if rain is expected within 24 hours, if the temperature is below 10 degrees, or if the surface is in direct intense sun (which causes paint to dry too fast and crack).
- Morning dew on exterior surfaces needs to evaporate before painting begins. South-facing walls in winter may not dry until mid-morning.
10. Pets, Kids, and Daily Routine During the Job
A painting job in your home disrupts your normal routine. Planning for this beforehand is better than improvising on the day.
Pets. Keep cats and dogs out of rooms being painted. Wet paint on paws gets tracked through the entire house in minutes. If your home is small and the whole interior is being done, arrange for pets to stay with a friend or at a kennel for the duration. Birds and fish in the rooms being painted should be moved to another area because paint fumes, even low-VOC products, can affect small animals.
Children. Wet paint and curious toddlers are a predictable disaster. If possible, arrange childcare or keep young children in a completely separate part of the house. Set up a “paint-free zone” with their toys and snacks.
Daily access. Talk to your painter about the schedule. Which rooms are being done on which days? Can you still use the kitchen? Where should you park? When will the front door be inaccessible? Most painters are happy to plan around your routine if you discuss it in advance.
Working from home. If you work from home, set up your workspace in a room that is being painted last. Noise from sanding and preparation is the loudest part. Actual painting is relatively quiet.
11. What Your Painter Should Handle (Not You)
You do not need to do everything. A licensed painter’s quote includes preparation as part of the job. If you over-prepare, you might actually create more work.
Your painter’s responsibility:
- Laying drop sheets over floors and any remaining furniture.
- Taping off areas that are not being painted (window glass, tiles, fittings).
- Sanding and scraping surfaces to create a proper key for the new paint.
- Applying primer where needed (bare timber, patched areas, stain-blocking over water marks).
- Caulking gaps between trim and walls for a clean finish.
- Cleaning up at the end of each day and removing all materials when the job is complete.
Not your job:
- Do not sand walls yourself unless your painter specifically asks you to. Incorrect sanding can damage plasterboard paper facing and create more problems.
- Do not apply primer. Your painter will choose the right primer for the surface and conditions.
- Do not remove door handles or hinges unless you are confident you can reinstall them. Most painters prefer to tape around hardware rather than deal with misaligned handles afterwards.
If something is unclear, ask. A good painter will tell you exactly what they need from you and what they will handle themselves. You can verify your painter’s credentials anytime on TradieVerify’s painter directory.
Frequently Asked Questions
How far in advance should I prepare my home for a painter?
Start two to three days before the painter’s arrival date. Clearing furniture and removing wall hangings takes longer than you expect, especially in a full house. If you need strata approval or lead paint testing, begin those processes two to four weeks ahead.
Do I need to move all furniture out of the room?
Not all of it. Small and medium items should leave the room entirely. Large, heavy pieces like a king bed or a full bookshelf can stay but need to be pushed to the centre with at least 1.5 metres of clearance from every wall. Your painter will cover them with drop sheets.
Should I wash the walls before the painter arrives?
A light wipe-down helps. Kitchen walls benefit the most from a clean with sugar soap because cooking grease interferes with paint adhesion. In other rooms, a dry dust with a microfibre cloth is usually enough. Your painter will do any heavy surface preparation as part of their quoted work.
What about painting in winter in southern Australia?
Winter painting is possible but takes longer. Cooler temperatures and higher humidity slow drying times between coats. Exterior painting becomes weather-dependent, as most paints need a minimum of 10 degrees and no rain within 24 hours. Interior painting is generally fine year-round with adequate ventilation. Your painter will factor seasonal conditions into their schedule.
How do I know if my painter is properly licensed?
Licensing requirements vary by state. In Queensland, painters need a QBCC licence for jobs over $3,300. In Western Australia, the threshold is $1,000 through DEMIRS. You can verify a painter’s licence through the relevant state regulator or search for licensed painters across Australia on TradieVerify. Our guide on painting licence requirements across Australia breaks down the rules state by state.
Can I stay in the house while it is being painted?
Yes, in most cases. Interior painting with modern water-based paints produces minimal fumes, though ventilation is still recommended. Your painter will typically work room by room, so you can use the rest of the house normally. For full-house repaints or if oil-based products are being used, you may want to arrange a night or two elsewhere.
Quick-Reference Checklist
Use this as a printable list in the days before your painter arrives.
One to four weeks before:
- Finalise all colour and finish selections
- Confirm scope in writing with your painter
- Get strata or body corporate approval if required
- Test for lead paint if your home was built before 1970
- Get landlord approval if you are renting
Two to three days before:
- Clear small and medium furniture from rooms being painted
- Move large furniture to the centre of rooms
- Remove picture frames, mirrors, and wall decorations
- Take down curtains, blinds, and rods
- Remove cover plates from light switches and power points
- Wipe kitchen walls with sugar soap
- Treat any visible mould in bathrooms
- Fill small nail holes and let filler dry
- Roll up and store rugs
Day before:
- Clear exterior access paths and unlock gates
- Move cars, bins, and outdoor furniture away from walls
- Trim overhanging plants away from exterior walls
- Set up a pet-free and child-free plan
- Confirm start time and parking with your painter
On the day:
- Open windows for ventilation
- Keep pets in a separate area
- Make sure the painter can reach external power points
- Have your colour selections and written scope handy
Proper preparation is a small investment of time that pays off in a better finish, a shorter timeline, and a lower bill. Your painter handles the skilled work. Your job is to give them the best possible canvas to work on.
Sources
- Australian Government Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water — Lead Alert: The Six Step Guide to Painting Your Home (Fifth Edition) — agriculture.gov.au
- Standards Australia — AS 4361.2:2017 Guide to Hazardous Paint Management — Lead Paint in Residential, Public and Commercial Buildings
- Standards Australia — AS/NZS 2311:2017 Guide to the Painting of Buildings
- Victorian Government Better Health Channel — Lead Exposure and Your Health — betterhealth.vic.gov.au
- Queensland Building and Construction Commission — Painter licensing requirements — qbcc.qld.gov.au
- WA Department of Energy, Mines, Industry Regulation and Safety — Painter and decorator registration — demirs.wa.gov.au