How to Hire a Licensed Concreter in Australia: A Complete Homeowner's Guide

Your driveway has cracked down the middle and water pools against the garage every time it rains. Or maybe you are planning a new patio out the back and want something that looks great and lasts thirty years. Concrete work sounds straightforward: mix some cement, pour it, smooth it off. But poor concrete work is one of the most expensive mistakes a homeowner can make. You cannot patch a badly poured slab. You cannot fix a driveway that was laid too thin or without reinforcing. The only fix is to jackhammer the lot out and start again, at twice the original cost.

This guide covers everything you need to know about hiring a licensed concreter in Australia. You will learn what types of concrete work exist, how much each costs, what licences are required in your state, how to compare quotes, what to look for in a finished job, and the red flags that should send you running. By the end, you will have the knowledge to hire with confidence and get a result that lasts decades.

Why Hiring a Licensed Concreter Matters

Concrete is a structural material. Once it is poured and cured, it becomes a permanent part of your property. A driveway that cracks within twelve months, a slab that sinks because the sub-base was not compacted, or a patio that slopes back towards the house instead of away from it: these are all expensive problems that could have been avoided by hiring the right person.

Structural vs decorative work. A garden path is relatively low-risk. A house slab, footings, or retaining wall is high-risk structural work where failure can affect the safety of your home. Licensed concreters and builders have the training to know the difference between a job that needs SL72 mesh and one that needs N12 rebar at 200mm centres with engineer sign-off.

Legal requirements. Every Australian state requires a licence for concrete work above a certain dollar value. In Queensland, that threshold is $3,300. In New South Wales, it is $5,000. Doing structural concrete work without the right licence is illegal and can result in fines for both the concreter and the homeowner. More on state-by-state rules later in this guide.

Consumer protection. A licensed concreter is registered with a state regulator. If something goes wrong, you have a formal complaints pathway. You can lodge a dispute with the QBCC, NSW Fair Trading, or the VBA and have it investigated. With an unlicensed operator, your only option is civil court, which is slow and expensive.

Insurance gaps. If an unlicensed concreter damages your property or injures themselves on your site, your home insurance may not cover it. Some home insurance policies specifically exclude claims arising from unlicensed or unregistered work. Read more about the risks in our guide on what happens if you hire an unlicensed tradie.

The cost of getting it wrong. Removing failed concrete costs $50 to $80 per square metre just for jackhammering and disposal. Then you pay for the replacement pour on top of that. A 50 square metre driveway that fails could cost $2,500 to $4,000 just to remove before you even start rebuilding. Getting it right the first time saves thousands.

Types of Concrete Work

Not all concrete jobs are the same. The type of work determines the licence needed, the concrete grade required, and the level of engineering involvement. Here is a breakdown of the most common residential concrete jobs in Australia.

Driveways

The most common residential concreting job. A standard double driveway in Australia is around 40 to 60 square metres. Exposed aggregate is by far the most popular finish for driveways across the country because it looks good, hides tyre marks, and provides grip in wet conditions. Your driveway needs to handle the weight of vehicles, so it requires thicker concrete (typically 100 to 125mm) and heavier reinforcing (SL82 mesh or rebar for heavy vehicles).

Paths and Walkways

Garden paths, side access paths, and front entry paths. Typically 1 to 1.5 metres wide and anywhere from 10 to 30 metres long. Paths are thinner (75 to 100mm) and can use lighter reinforcing (SL72 mesh). These are lower-cost jobs, but drainage and falls still matter to avoid water pooling.

Patios and Outdoor Entertaining Areas

Often the centrepiece of a backyard renovation, typically 20 to 40 square metres. Patios are frequently combined with a pergola or roof structure. The finish matters here because you will be looking at it every day. Exposed aggregate, honed concrete, and coloured concrete are all popular choices. If a roof structure is going over the top, you may also need a licensed builder and a building permit.

House Slabs

This is major structural work. A standard house slab is 100 to 250 square metres, requires an engineer’s design, and must be built by a licensed builder. House slabs use higher-grade concrete (N25 or N32), thicker edges (300 to 450mm at the footings), and heavy reinforcing designed by a structural engineer. A concreter may pour the slab, but the builder is legally responsible for the work.

Garage Floors and Shed Slabs

Garage slabs and shed slabs typically range from 20 to 60 square metres. They need a hard-wearing finish that resists oil stains and can handle dropped tools. A steel-trowel or burnished finish is common. Thickness is usually 100mm with SL82 mesh.

Pool Surrounds

Pool surrounds have specific requirements for slip resistance. Australian Standard AS 4586 sets slip resistance classifications, and pool surrounds must meet a minimum rating. Exposed aggregate and broom finishes are popular because they provide grip when wet. Pool surrounds also need proper falls directing water away from the pool and towards drainage.

Retaining Walls

Concrete retaining walls have structural implications, especially those over 600mm in height. Most councils require engineering certification for retaining walls over 600mm. This work usually falls under a builder’s licence rather than a concreting-only licence.

Footings and Foundations

Strip footings, pad footings, and pier footings are always engineered, always structural, and always require a licensed builder. These are the foundation of your house or structure. The engineer specifies concrete grade, reinforcing, depth, and width based on soil conditions and the load the footings will carry.

Decorative Concrete

This covers a range of finishes: stamped, stencilled, polished, coloured, and exposed aggregate. Decorative concrete requires extra skill and experience because the finishing work must be done within a tight window while the concrete is curing. A concreter who specialises in decorative work will charge more but deliver a better result. More detail on finishes below.

How Much Does Concrete Work Cost in Australia?

Concrete pricing in Australia varies based on the finish, thickness, site conditions, and your location. Metro areas tend to be cheaper than regional areas because concrete trucks have shorter travel distances and there is more competition between concreters.

Here are typical price ranges for 2025-2026:

Cost per Square Metre by Finish Type

Total Cost by Project Type

Factors That Affect Your Price

Site access. If the concrete truck cannot reverse to the pour site, you will need a concrete pump truck. Pump trucks add $800 to $1,500 to the job.

Excavation. If the site needs to be dug out and levelled before pouring, excavation adds $20 to $50 per square metre depending on soil type and how much material needs to be removed.

Sub-base preparation. A proper compacted sub-base of crusher dust or road base is essential. Some quotes include this; others treat it as an extra. Always ask.

Reinforcing. SL72 mesh is the minimum for paths. SL82 mesh is standard for driveways. Rebar (N12 or N16 bars) is used for structural work. Heavier reinforcing costs more.

Concrete thickness. Paths are typically 75 to 100mm. Driveways are 100 to 125mm. Slabs with vehicle traffic may be 150mm. Thicker concrete uses more material and costs more.

Concrete grade. Standard residential concrete is N20 or N25. Driveways and high-load areas use N25 or N32. Higher grades cost more per cubic metre.

Formwork. The timber boxing that shapes the concrete pour. Curved or complex shapes require more formwork labour.

Finish type. As the table above shows, decorative finishes cost significantly more than plain broom finish.

For help comparing quotes, see our guide on how to read and compare trade quotes.

1. Check Their Licence

The first thing to do before signing anything is verify the concreter’s licence. Concrete work does not always require a specific “concreter” licence. In most states, concreting falls under a broader builder or contractor licence category.

When a licence is required. If the total value of the concrete work exceeds your state’s licensing threshold, the person doing the work must hold an appropriate licence. In Queensland, that means a QBCC contractor licence for work over $3,300. In New South Wales, a contractor licence for work over $5,000.

Concreter vs builder licence. Some states issue specific concreting licences (Queensland has a “Concreting” trade contractor licence under the QBCC). Other states require a general builder licence for concrete work. For structural work like house slabs, footings, and retaining walls, you almost always need a licensed builder, not just a concreter.

How to verify. Search for the concreter’s licence on TradieVerify’s search page. Enter their name, licence number, or business name. Check that the licence is current, active, and covers the type of work you need.

What to look for:

• Licence status: Current and active, not expired or suspended.
• Licence class: Does it cover concreting or building work relevant to your job?
• Business name and ABN: Do they match what appears on the quote?
• Disciplinary history: Has the concreter had complaints or enforcement actions?

ABN check. Every legitimate concreting business should have an Australian Business Number. You can verify this on the ABR website. If someone quotes without an ABN, they are likely not registered for GST and may not have insurance or a licence.

Any honest concreter will hand over their licence number without blinking. If they get defensive or change the subject, that tells you everything you need to know.

2. Verify Insurance

Insurance is your safety net. Concrete pours involve heavy machinery, large trucks, and significant physical labour. Things can go wrong.

Public liability insurance. This covers damage to your property or injuries to third parties caused by the concreter’s work. For concrete work, look for a minimum of $10 million in public liability cover. Some larger jobs (especially those near boundaries, driveways near other properties, or work involving pump trucks) warrant $20 million.

Workers compensation. If the concreter has employees, they are legally required to hold workers compensation insurance in every state. If a worker is injured on your property and the concreter does not have workers compensation, you could be liable.

What insurance does not cover. Insurance protects against accidents and damage. It does not cover poor workmanship. If the concreter pours your driveway too thin and it cracks in twelve months, that is a warranty and consumer law issue, not an insurance claim. This is why hiring a licensed, experienced concreter matters.

Ask for a certificate of currency. This is a one-page document from the insurer confirming the policy is active and the coverage amount. Any professional concreter will have this on hand or can get it from their insurer within a day. Check the expiry date and make sure it covers the period your work will be done.

Home warranty insurance. For larger jobs above your state’s threshold, the concreter or builder may need to provide home warranty insurance. This varies by state and project type. Ask if it applies to your job.

3. Look at Their Previous Work

Concrete finishes are highly visible. You will look at your driveway, patio, or path every single day. The quality of the finish matters, and you can assess it before you hire.

Ask for photos. Every good concreter has photos of their completed work. Many maintain an Instagram or Facebook page specifically to showcase their jobs. Ask to see examples that match the type of work and finish you want.

Ask for addresses. A concreter who is proud of their work will give you addresses of past jobs so you can drive past and have a look. Drive past two or three if you can.

What to look for in completed work:

• Straight, clean edges. The formwork should leave crisp, even edges. Wobbly or rough edges indicate sloppy formwork.
• Consistent finish. Exposed aggregate should have an even distribution of stone across the whole surface. Coloured concrete should be uniform without blotchy patches.
• Proper drainage falls. Water should not pool on the surface. Look at the concrete after rain if possible.
• No cracking. Some hairline cracking is normal over time, but significant cracks within the first twelve months suggest poor sub-base preparation, inadequate reinforcing, or incorrect concrete mix.
• Clean control joints. Saw-cut or tooled joints should be straight, evenly spaced, and consistent in depth.

Age of the work. Ask how old the examples are. Concrete that looks good at six months might look very different at three years. If a concreter can show you work that still looks great after several years, that is a strong sign.

4. Get Detailed Written Quotes

Get a minimum of three written quotes for any concrete job. Verbal quotes are worthless. A written quote protects both you and the concreter by putting everything on paper before work starts.

What the quote must include:

• Total area to be concreted in square metres
• Concrete thickness (mm)
• Concrete grade (N20, N25, N32)
• Reinforcing type (SL72 mesh, SL82 mesh, N12 rebar, or as per engineer’s design)
• Sub-base preparation details (type and depth of crusher dust or road base)
• Formwork included or excluded
• Finish type (plain, exposed aggregate, coloured, stamped, honed)
• Excavation included or excluded, and estimated depth
• Concrete pump truck included or excluded
• Drainage provisions (falls, channel drains)
• Control joints (saw-cut or tooled, spacing)
• Curing requirements and timeline
• Start date and estimated completion date
• Payment terms and schedule
• Total price including GST
• Licence number and ABN

Compare like-for-like. The cheapest quote is often the cheapest for a reason. If one concreter quotes $4,500 for a driveway and two others quote $6,500, look at the detail. The cheap quote might specify 75mm thickness where the others specify 100mm. It might use SL72 mesh instead of SL82. It might exclude excavation or sub-base preparation.

The danger of cheap concrete. A driveway poured at 75mm with SL72 mesh and N20 concrete will look identical to one poured at 100mm with SL82 mesh and N25 concrete on the day it is poured. The difference shows up twelve months later when the thin driveway cracks under vehicle weight and the thicker one is still perfect.

Payment terms. Be cautious of anyone asking for full payment upfront. A typical payment schedule for a concrete job is a deposit of 10 to 20 per cent on signing, with the balance on completion. For larger jobs, there may be progress payments. Read our guide on tradie payment terms for what is standard across Australia.

For a detailed breakdown on reading quotes, see our guide on how to read and compare trade quotes.

5. Understand the Concrete Process

Knowing what to expect helps you spot shortcuts and ask the right questions. Here is what a professional concrete pour looks like from start to finish.

Step 1: Site Preparation and Excavation

The area is marked out and excavated to the required depth. For a 100mm slab on a 100mm sub-base, the total excavation depth is 200mm below the finished surface level. The excavated area must have stable, compacted soil at the bottom. Any soft spots, tree roots, or fill material need to be removed and replaced with compacted material.

Step 2: Sub-base Compaction

A layer of crusher dust or road base (typically 75 to 150mm) is spread and compacted using a plate compactor. The sub-base provides a stable, level foundation for the concrete. Skipping or skimping on sub-base compaction is the number one cause of slab cracking and sinking. A good concreter will compact the sub-base in layers and check it with a straight edge.

Step 3: Formwork

Timber boards (typically 100x50mm or 150x25mm) are set around the perimeter to contain the concrete pour and define the shape and height of the slab. Formwork must be level (or graded to the correct fall), securely staked, and strong enough to hold wet concrete without bulging.

Step 4: Reinforcing

Steel reinforcing mesh (SL72 or SL82) or rebar is placed inside the formwork on plastic bar chairs. The bar chairs lift the reinforcing off the sub-base so that it sits in the lower third of the slab, where it does the most good. Reinforcing that sits on the ground instead of on bar chairs provides almost no structural benefit. This is a common shortcut that cheap operators take.

Step 5: Concrete Pour

The concrete arrives in an agitator truck (the spinning barrel truck). If the truck can reverse to the pour site, the concrete is poured directly from the chute. If access is limited, a pump truck is used to move the concrete through a hose to the pour site. The concreter and their team spread the concrete quickly and evenly across the formwork.

Step 6: Screeding and Finishing

A screed board (a straight piece of timber or aluminium) is dragged across the top of the formwork to level the concrete. Then the finishing begins. For a broom finish, a broom is dragged across the surface. For exposed aggregate, the surface is washed and brushed to reveal the stones. For coloured or stamped concrete, the finishing work happens in this stage.

Step 7: Control Joints

Control joints are cuts or grooves in the concrete surface that control where cracks form. Concrete shrinks as it cures, and without control joints, it will crack randomly. Saw-cut joints are cut with a concrete saw the next day. Tooled joints are pressed into the wet concrete during finishing. Control joints should be spaced at intervals no greater than 25 to 30 times the slab thickness. For a 100mm slab, that means joints every 2.5 to 3 metres.

Step 8: Curing

Concrete reaches about 70 per cent of its strength in seven days and full design strength in 28 days. During this period, the concrete needs to stay moist. In hot weather, the concreter may spray a curing compound on the surface or advise you to keep it damp with a gentle hose. Do not drive on a new driveway for at least seven days, and preferably fourteen.

Step 9: Sealing

Some finishes require a sealer to protect the surface and enhance the colour. Exposed aggregate is commonly sealed. The sealer is typically applied after the concrete has cured for 28 days.

Weather and Concrete

Rain. Concrete cannot be poured in rain. Rain washes cement out of the surface and ruins the finish. A concreter who wants to pour with rain forecast is taking a risk with your money.

Extreme heat. Temperatures above 35 degrees Celsius cause concrete to cure too fast, leading to surface cracking. Additives (retarders) can slow the curing process, but pouring in a heatwave is risky.

Cold weather. Concrete should not be poured when the temperature is below 5 degrees Celsius. Below this temperature, the hydration process slows dramatically and the concrete may not reach its design strength.

6. Ask About Concrete Mix and Thickness

This is where many homeowners get caught out. The concrete grade and thickness directly determine how strong and long-lasting your slab will be. Cheap concreters cut costs by using thinner concrete or lower-grade mixes, and you cannot tell the difference by looking at the finished surface.

Concrete grades explained. In Australia, concrete is graded by its compressive strength in megapascals (MPa) at 28 days. The “N” stands for normal class.

Standard residential specs. For a standard residential driveway, the minimum you should accept is N25 concrete at 100mm thick with SL82 mesh reinforcing. For paths and patios that will not carry vehicle traffic, N20 at 100mm with SL72 mesh is acceptable.

Driveways with heavy vehicles. If you have a caravan, boat trailer, or heavy 4WD, your driveway should be N32 concrete at 125 to 150mm thick. The extra cost is small compared to replacing a cracked driveway in three years.

Why cheap quotes often mean thin concrete. A cubic metre of N25 concrete costs roughly $250 to $300 delivered. A 50 square metre driveway at 100mm thick uses 5 cubic metres. The same driveway at 75mm thick uses only 3.75 cubic metres. That saving of 1.25 cubic metres ($310 to $375) goes straight into the concreter’s pocket, and you get a driveway that is 25 per cent weaker.

Australian Standard AS 3600. This is the Australian standard for concrete structures. It specifies minimum requirements for concrete strength, reinforcing, cover, and curing. Your concreter should be familiar with this standard and able to explain how your job complies.

Reinforcing specifications:

7. Drainage and Falls

Water management is one of the most overlooked aspects of concrete work, and one of the most consequential. Concrete is impermeable. Every drop of rain that hits your new driveway or patio has to go somewhere, and it is your concreter’s job to make sure it goes in the right direction.

Minimum fall. Concrete surfaces must slope away from your house at a minimum fall of 1:100. That means a drop of at least 10mm for every metre of length. For areas where water tends to collect, 1:60 to 1:80 is better.

Stormwater management. Your local council has rules about where stormwater can go. You generally cannot direct water onto a neighbour’s property or onto the street without proper drainage. A concreter who does not ask about drainage is a concreter who has not thought the job through.

What happens when drainage is wrong. Water pooling against your house can cause rising damp, foundation damage, and even structural movement over time. Water pooling on a patio or driveway creates a slip hazard and accelerates surface deterioration. In cold regions, pooled water can freeze and cause the concrete surface to spall.

Channel drains. Where a driveway meets a garage or where a patio meets the house, a channel drain (also called a strip drain) is often needed to intercept water before it enters the building. Channel drains are a grated trench that connects to your stormwater system.

Integration with existing drainage. Your new concrete work needs to tie into your existing stormwater system. If it does not, you may end up with water problems elsewhere on the property. A good concreter will discuss drainage at the quoting stage, not after the concrete is poured.

Concrete Finishes Explained

The finish you choose affects the look, maintenance, cost, and longevity of your concrete. Here is a detailed comparison of the most common finishes used in Australian homes.

Plain or Broom Finish

The most affordable option. After the concrete is screeded and floated, a broom is dragged across the surface to create a textured, non-slip finish. It is functional, durable, and looks clean. Best for side paths, utility areas, and back-of-house slabs where appearance is secondary to function.

Exposed Aggregate

The most popular decorative finish in Australia. The surface layer of cement is washed away to reveal the natural stone aggregate underneath. You can choose different stone types and colours: Sydney pebble, Glenelg gold, Ballarat brown, black basalt, and many others. Exposed aggregate provides excellent grip, hides minor imperfections, and ages well. It does require sealing every three to five years.

Honed or Polished Concrete

The concrete surface is ground down with diamond pads to create a smooth, almost glass-like finish. Honed concrete is ground to a matte or satin finish. Polished concrete has a high-gloss shine. This finish looks modern and elegant, but it can be slippery when wet, making it less suitable for pool surrounds or steep driveways. It is popular for patios, indoor floors, and covered outdoor areas.

Stamped or Patterned Concrete

While the concrete is still wet, large rubber stamps are pressed into the surface to create patterns that imitate brick, stone, slate, or timber. A release agent and colour hardener are applied to enhance the effect. Stamped concrete can look impressive, but it requires skill to execute well. Poor stamping shows misaligned patterns, uneven colour, and visible seams. It requires resealing every two to three years to maintain the colour and prevent the surface from wearing.

Coloured Concrete

Colour can be added to concrete in two ways. Oxide powder is mixed into the entire batch of concrete (integral colour), giving consistent colour all the way through. Surface-applied colour hardeners are dusted onto the wet surface, giving a thicker colour layer on top. Integral colour is more forgiving because chips and scratches do not reveal a different colour underneath. Surface colour is more vibrant but shows its age faster.

Stencilled Concrete

A paper or plastic stencil is laid on the wet concrete surface, and a colour hardener or oxide is applied over the top. When the stencil is removed, a pattern remains. Stencilled concrete is less expensive than stamped concrete but can look less natural. It is a good mid-range option for driveways and paths.

Finish Comparison Table

State-by-State Licensing for Concreters

Licensing requirements for concreters differ across Australian states and territories. Some states have a specific concreting licence category while others bundle concrete work under general building or contractor licences.

A few things to keep in mind:

• These thresholds refer to the total contract value, including materials and labour.
• Structural concrete work (slabs, footings, retaining walls) typically falls under a builder’s licence regardless of value.
• Thresholds can change. Always verify the current rules with the relevant state regulator or on TradieVerify’s search page.
• A concreter working across state borders must hold a licence in each state where they do work.

Unlicensed work penalties. In Queensland, doing building work without a licence can result in fines of over $40,000. In New South Wales, penalties can reach $110,000 for individuals. The penalties exist for good reason: unlicensed work puts homeowners at risk.

For a full breakdown of what happens when you hire someone without a licence, read our guide on what happens if you hire an unlicensed tradie in Australia.

Red Flags When Hiring a Concreter

After looking at dozens of concrete jobs gone wrong, certain patterns show up again and again. If you spot any of these warning signs, walk away.

Cash only, no contract. A concreter who only accepts cash and does not want to put anything in writing is avoiding a paper trail. No contract means no consumer protection. No invoice means no GST, which usually means no licence and no insurance.

Refuses to provide a licence number. There is no reason for a licensed concreter to withhold their licence number. If they dodge the question, they probably do not have one.

No reinforcing quoted. If the quote does not mention reinforcing mesh or rebar, the concreter is planning to skip it. Unreinforced concrete of any meaningful size will crack.

Quoting well below everyone else. If you have three quotes at $6,000, $6,500, and $7,000, then one at $3,500, that fourth quote is not a bargain. It is a warning. They are cutting corners somewhere: thinner concrete, lower grade, no sub-base, no reinforcing, or they plan to do the work unlicensed.

Wanting to pour in the rain. Rain ruins fresh concrete. A professional concreter will postpone the pour if rain is forecast. A concreter who pushes ahead regardless does not care about quality.

No control joints planned. If you ask about control joints and get a blank stare, find someone else. Control joints are basic concreting knowledge.

Not compacting the sub-base. If you see the concreter skipping sub-base compaction or just spreading a thin layer of crusher dust without a plate compactor, stop the job. The slab will sink and crack.

Using the lowest grade concrete for driveways. N20 concrete on a driveway is asking for problems. If the quote says N20 for a driveway, ask why.

Concrete Maintenance Tips

Concrete is low maintenance, but it is not zero maintenance. A little care extends the life of your concrete by years.

Sealing. Most decorative finishes benefit from a sealer. Exposed aggregate, coloured, and stamped concrete should be sealed after the initial 28-day cure and then resealed every two to five years depending on traffic and exposure. Sealing costs $5 to $15 per square metre for a professional application, or you can do it yourself with a roller for $2 to $5 per square metre in materials.

Cleaning. An annual pressure wash keeps concrete looking fresh. Use a fan nozzle, not a zero-degree tip, which can etch the surface. For exposed aggregate, pressure washing before resealing removes dirt, mould, and grime that would otherwise get trapped under the new sealer.

Crack repair. Hairline cracks (less than 2mm wide) are cosmetic and can be filled with a concrete crack filler from the hardware store. Cracks wider than 3mm may indicate structural movement and should be assessed by a professional before filling.

Oil stain removal. Fresh oil on concrete should be covered with kitty litter or baking soda immediately to absorb the oil. Once dried, scrub with a concrete degreaser. Old oil stains may need a poultice treatment or professional cleaning. Sealing your concrete helps prevent oil from penetrating the surface.

When to replace vs repair. If your concrete has widespread cracking, significant sinking, or large areas of surface deterioration (spalling), repair is usually more expensive and less effective than replacement. Patching over bad concrete is a temporary fix at best.

Expansion joints vs control joints. Expansion joints are flexible gaps (filled with compressible material) between the concrete and fixed structures like house walls, boundary walls, or between large slab sections. They allow the concrete to expand and contract with temperature changes without cracking. Control joints are deliberate weak points where the concrete cracks in a straight line rather than randomly. Both are necessary and should be maintained. If the filler in your expansion joints deteriorates, replace it with a flexible polyurethane sealant.

Frequently Asked Questions

How thick should a concrete driveway be in Australia?

A standard residential driveway should be at least 100mm thick, with SL82 mesh reinforcing. If you park heavy vehicles like caravans, boats on trailers, or large 4WDs, increase the thickness to 125 to 150mm and consider N32 grade concrete. The edges of the driveway (where vehicles transition on and off) experience the most stress, so some concreters thicken the edges to 125mm even on a standard 100mm driveway.

Do I need council approval for a concrete driveway?

In most cases, no. A standard residential driveway on your own property does not need a building permit. However, if the driveway crosses a council footpath or nature strip to connect to the road, you will need a crossover permit from your local council. If the driveway is part of a larger building project, it may be included in the building permit. Check with your local council before starting work. For more on permits, see our guide on building permits and approvals.

How long does concrete take to cure?

Concrete reaches about 70 per cent of its design strength in seven days and full design strength in 28 days. You can walk on new concrete after 24 to 48 hours. Light vehicle traffic can resume after seven days. Heavy loads should wait 28 days. During the curing period, keep the concrete moist (especially in hot weather) to prevent surface cracking.

What is the cheapest concrete finish?

A plain broom finish is the cheapest option at $65 to $85 per square metre installed. It is a clean, functional finish with good grip. Coloured concrete is the next step up at $80 to $120 per square metre and adds visual appeal without a huge price jump.

Can you pour concrete in winter in Australia?

Yes, in most parts of Australia. Winter temperatures in Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, and Adelaide rarely drop below 5 degrees Celsius during the day. In Canberra, Melbourne, Hobart, and regional areas that experience frost, concrete pours should be scheduled for the warmest part of the day and the concrete should be protected from freezing overnight with insulating blankets. Concrete should not be poured if the temperature is below 5 degrees Celsius.

How long does a concrete driveway last?

A well-built, properly maintained concrete driveway should last 25 to 30 years or more. The key factors are correct thickness, proper reinforcing, good sub-base compaction, appropriate concrete grade, and regular resealing of decorative finishes. Many concrete driveways in Australia are still in excellent condition after 30-plus years.

What is exposed aggregate concrete?

Exposed aggregate is a decorative concrete finish where the top layer of cement paste is removed (by washing or chemical retarder) to reveal the natural stone aggregate mixed into the concrete. You can choose from a range of stone types and colours to match your home. It is the most popular decorative driveway finish in Australia because it looks good, provides grip, hides imperfections, and ages well.

Do I need a licensed concreter for a small patio?

It depends on the cost of the job and your state’s licensing threshold. In Queensland, any concreting work over $3,300 requires a QBCC-licensed contractor. In New South Wales, the threshold is $5,000. A small patio of 15 to 20 square metres could easily cost $2,000 to $4,000, which may or may not exceed your state’s threshold. Even if the job is below the threshold, hiring a licensed concreter gives you warranty protection, insurance coverage, and a complaints pathway if something goes wrong. Check our 10 questions to ask before hiring any tradie for more guidance.

Summary

Hiring a licensed concreter comes down to a few core principles. Check their licence on TradieVerify before you sign anything. Verify their insurance and get a certificate of currency. Get at least three detailed written quotes that specify concrete grade, thickness, reinforcing, and finish type so you can compare like-for-like. Understand the process so you can spot shortcuts. And never choose solely on price, because the cheapest concrete quote almost always means the thinnest slab.

Concrete is permanent. A good pour lasts 30 years. A bad pour costs you twice: once to remove and once to replace. Take the time to hire right, ask the hard questions, and you will end up with a driveway, patio, or slab you are happy with for decades.

Ready to find a licensed concreter or builder? Search for verified tradies in your area on TradieVerify.

Sources

• Queensland Building and Construction Commission (QBCC), Licensing requirements: qbcc.qld.gov.au
• NSW Fair Trading, Home building licensing: fairtrading.nsw.gov.au
• Victorian Building Authority (VBA), Practitioner registration: vba.vic.gov.au
• Standards Australia, AS 3600:2018 Concrete Structures: standards.org.au
• Standards Australia, AS 4586:2013 Slip Resistance Classification of New Pedestrian Surface Materials: standards.org.au
• Cement Concrete & Aggregates Australia (CCAA), Guide to Residential Concrete: ccaa.com.au
• Australian Business Register (ABR), ABN Lookup: abr.business.gov.au
• National Construction Code (NCC), Australian Building Codes Board: ncc.abcb.gov.au